As we settled ourselves down, we were brought a basket of papads and crisps, typical to an Indian meal with classic Dakshin chutneys of tomato, coconut and coriander. They always make for the best munchies while you wait for the parade of food to begin. Also accompanying these crisps was a pleasant and refreshing drink of coconut water and mint. 




There were quite a few of main courses that made their way to the table, signature thali and katori style. Helpings from these dishes were ladled into each of our katories and were accompanied by Rice Pathiri - a staple thin chapati-like bread that is usually served with an array of meat dishes, just like it was this evening. Ummi explained how this pathiri is not really an easy thing to make and takes a long while mastering it. Along with the rice version, is a slightly sweeter coconut version that is deep fried, slightly greasy, but so satisfying with the likes of the tomato chutney and bhindi masala that was served

One of the first dishes from the main courses that came our way was the Alisa - a wheat and mutton porridge preparation which looks very similar to the haleem, but is a lighter (thanks to the lower meat, higher wheat proportion), made fragrant with caramelized onion and a light hand on the ghee. This is the dish that you will go back for, all through your meal and then, if you are like me, post dessert too.



Each of the main courses were distinctive in their flavours. The Kozhi Varattiyathu with onions and fennel paste rubbed on chicken drumsticks is mild, yet very flavourful, with a strong punch from the fennel. Both the Vendakkai Mulakitthatu (Bhindi Masala) with a touch of chilli and Thakkali Vatichathu (Tomato Chutney/Gojju) had distinctive tangy flavours, pairing very well with the pathiri. The Erachi Varatharacha Curry (Mutton Curry) is quite typical of a Kerala style mutton curry that is coconut based.

As with any great Indian meal the base for us with daintily rolled masala papads, a grainy mint chutney and a fabulous Mango preserve - of the kinds that you continually take helpings of, only to realize that you have reached the bottom of the bowl and the first course is yet to arrive at the table. It carries the tastes of sweet and sour, with a tempering of mustard that gives it a light hit of spice as well.

We begin the meal, and how! With the Kakori Kebab. These kebabs of minced mutton with subtle hints of cloves and cinnamon have a delicate long cylindrical shape to them. Its char grilled nature holds its shape perfectly, even though the roll is thin and delicate. Presented along with sheermal rotis, these can pretty much go the mango preserve way. You have to make a conscious effort to stop, if you ever plan to savour the brilliance that the rest of the menu has to offer.

Restaurants usually save their best for the last; well at Dum Pukht, they begin with their masterpiece and only go higher from there!

The Jhinga Dum Nisha that is, Jumbo prawns dipped in carom seeds, coated liberally with a creamy yogurt-based marinade if I am not wrong, and served with a saffron-flavored sauce, came next. Each of these prawns were the size of Anoushka's palm, making that a sizable mouthful. But with their little tails still on, you have the perfect scoop for the lovely marinade and sauce blend that coats the bottom of the plate once you are done with the prawns. 

One would think that a rendition of the Shammi Kebab in a vegetarian avatar will never match up. Fact is, it doesn't, because you are talking of a meat vs vegetable debate and the two don't compare. But what this Hara Kebab, made of spinach, channa dal, pan-grilled in butter and served with a sprinkling of fenugreek does is, create a standard of its own. These round kebabs amazingly bring the flavour of spinach to the fore and is made even better with the coating of mashed channa dal that you get in your mouth. Squeeze on a bit of the lime, generously dunk into the mint chutney and you will not be missing your meat any time soon.

Moving ever so slowly to the mains, we started with the Koh - E - Awadh - Lamb shanks cooked on dum in a fragrant curry of brown onion, lamb juice and saffron. It is so easy to overdo mutton and reduce it to a jaw gnashing mess, but one look at this dish and you know the love and care that has gone into it. All the shanks need is a gentle nudge with your fork or knife and the meat parts ways with the bone. The gravy is a classic brown onion one, with flecks of blanched almonds to give it that body and creamy taste.

The Murgh Rezala - a chicken cooked on dum with onions and almonds and flavored with cardamom and dash of white pepper also made a pretty appearance on the table. Here too the preparations was rich, creamy, despite looking deceptively  light. What deserves mention in all of these dishes is that brilliance has been achieved with the simplest of ingredients coming together in perfect unison.

For all the Dal lovers out there, the Dal Dum Pukht Qureshi - Arhar dal with hung yogurt and tempering of burnt garlic is not to be missed! I have never thought of dal and curd together, but the combination results in a creamy, not too heavy dal that makes a perfect accompaniment with host of breads that come your way. But for me, it was a bowlful(s) of this, as is.

By the time we got to the cracking of the crusted rim around the Dum Pukht Biryani, we were stuffed to the gills, but even then, the aroma that wafts out of that little pot will set your senses tingling and will force you to partake of the fluffy, yet firm rice, the layers of meat packed below and the absolute decadence that this dish is.

Begum's Pudding - A true blue Nawabi dish of reduced milk that is baked with groundnuts and saffron served with a quenelle of cream, some brandy sauce and smaller elements that you tend to lose track of because you have already taken a bite and are in awe.

And just when you think there cannot be anything more - the Kulfi Lab-e-Mashooq platter makes an entry - while the glass houses some slurp-styled vermicelli doused in delicate rose syrup, the kulfi are decadent frozen slabs with saffron being the predominant indulgence.

There is no two ways of about Dum Pukht being an experience in Raj style Indian dining. It is a classy affair all through and will take you through a journey back in time. Plans are afoot now to bring in a small wave of change - in the decor, in the presentation but definitely not in the style of cooking. If anything, things are going to adhere to original cooking styles with added fervor. a meal for two here is in the Rs 3500++